tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39316121818495438672024-03-18T12:08:32.498-07:00WA6PZBA journal for my projects and experiments in the physical worldWA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.comBlogger137125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-73459645940972709052022-10-02T18:12:00.002-07:002022-10-02T18:12:29.656-07:00Bread Board PBX (BB_PBX) - Ring Generator<p> I am working on a PICAXE ring generator for the BB_PBX. Since the SLIC modules require two pins with signal timings to ring them, I can reduce the I/O pins needed from the PIC32 and simplify the software too.</p><p>The PICAXE 08M2 chip will generate 20 Hz ringing signal on pin 5 C.2 and the ring mode signal on pin 6 C.1. The PICAXE is also taking care of the ring cadence (ringing then silence then ringing, etc.) and signal timing. This will no longer need to be handled in a software, so a single I/O pin connect to for example - Ring1 line brought high to start ringing line 1, etc.</p><p>The logic gates connected to the PICAXE route the ringing to one of 3 SLIC modules (technically possible to ring all lines if needed). It is also connected to the SHK (Hook) of the SLIC module so it will kill ringing when the phone goes off hook instantly, since with the software there could be delays.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYRQK4bQk7m1jS1LkmtRyw5tZ432S0tA9Iyo6QQvpKtTKXAv5g8g1ofkufDjg4_Wlc9Ez1LjDTx2Zd6fgA4WzCXBJILo5qDlfCshmLieRUiE2FkMqterelf6eUF8LTMea2i4MLPMPyQbyIRFchLhU8Jw4kAl2KIaJzY2QVxLeqV8_lapFTFGF_j0cy/s609/ring-gen.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="474" data-original-width="609" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYRQK4bQk7m1jS1LkmtRyw5tZ432S0tA9Iyo6QQvpKtTKXAv5g8g1ofkufDjg4_Wlc9Ez1LjDTx2Zd6fgA4WzCXBJILo5qDlfCshmLieRUiE2FkMqterelf6eUF8LTMea2i4MLPMPyQbyIRFchLhU8Jw4kAl2KIaJzY2QVxLeqV8_lapFTFGF_j0cy/s320/ring-gen.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Here is the PICAXE Blockly code for the ringer.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6I4AQMjMkfc_-KXabeTTOJsDwMm0hRW3GPpbDHHCvXAq_9U7rZQ7Ac6ndT5gmbwcXrWbM7MUqO8jMWJRAbHX3mCG_wnBEC5HMFC8Z8gP9G6VcFzGttRVO9UK9U5jLqAPy8QXfEQl1JaoTXtbqxIU0ZzfYZbNlgqE3isuVUteyHcfRmb95y7UU-KRo/s407/blockly_ringer.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="407" data-original-width="373" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6I4AQMjMkfc_-KXabeTTOJsDwMm0hRW3GPpbDHHCvXAq_9U7rZQ7Ac6ndT5gmbwcXrWbM7MUqO8jMWJRAbHX3mCG_wnBEC5HMFC8Z8gP9G6VcFzGttRVO9UK9U5jLqAPy8QXfEQl1JaoTXtbqxIU0ZzfYZbNlgqE3isuVUteyHcfRmb95y7UU-KRo/s320/blockly_ringer.jpeg" width="293" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-11322703453932581472022-10-02T16:59:00.001-07:002022-10-02T16:59:48.179-07:00FTDI Picaxe programmer<p> I needed to build a simple logic block for my Bread Board PBX to simplify the software and decided to use one of the <a href="https://picaxe.com/">PICAXE</a> micro-controllers for a ring generator.</p><p>I had a couple of the small 8-Pin 08M2 chips already in my supplies, so I started to dig through my cables to find the special cable to use with the old AXE029 bread adapter to program the devices. It has been a while since I last programmed one, and I was using it via serial COM port cable the last time I did this and was not using the newer PICAXE USB cable that they have to connect to the adapter. Long story short, I could not get it to work. It may be a driver issue or because I am using the newer 8-Pin device now.</p><p>Anyway, I did some quick googling to see if I program a PICAXE with one of my other serial devices like my USB FTDI adapter <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873">HERE</a>. The answer is yes!</p><p>Here is the minimal circuiy found <a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/1526/programming-a-picaxe-with-an-arduino">HERE</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZZpihIrG32vjXOlCuuv0geKWZ3oMG5oIOoxvzh4oZITQeNWoHWoed-qJByM9xYglD-bbssR9G_b3PT-F51PrKOp0sqvXdbvY3DEK1mIHqGbevudQKtHr3mJMLlPho1kKrnOh7eCLIPWz3QOik4ykFSgzPOEWLXD58SaZgU4vjAJa_ArS0xHxfHyB/s462/picaxe.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="236" data-original-width="462" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZZpihIrG32vjXOlCuuv0geKWZ3oMG5oIOoxvzh4oZITQeNWoHWoed-qJByM9xYglD-bbssR9G_b3PT-F51PrKOp0sqvXdbvY3DEK1mIHqGbevudQKtHr3mJMLlPho1kKrnOh7eCLIPWz3QOik4ykFSgzPOEWLXD58SaZgU4vjAJa_ArS0xHxfHyB/s320/picaxe.gif" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>But, I found using the FTDI 3.3v version the TX pin can go directly to pin3 without the resistor network and the RX to pin 7. And the PICAXE is being powered by the FTDI module too!</p><p>So, the setup just reduces to the following, but there is one more step required.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwQ45N4LrbyGxnzQTwmw7qe_wQcihQX5tQVNrr2oI4zz86DxMgwrZGaWquW_yUqXC33WbLtn5ZuIsRZYq4iR5WVFNCzKfKjiAplnoA7itbbdFWdUTVIFy_Mz76IXvCvvczihXIrqbtb168y2bzQpl8v7dkTUZGz38Pb2Xi21USqxSE5rq0RwGjOr8/s383/pixaxe-ftdi.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="254" data-original-width="383" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwQ45N4LrbyGxnzQTwmw7qe_wQcihQX5tQVNrr2oI4zz86DxMgwrZGaWquW_yUqXC33WbLtn5ZuIsRZYq4iR5WVFNCzKfKjiAplnoA7itbbdFWdUTVIFy_Mz76IXvCvvczihXIrqbtb168y2bzQpl8v7dkTUZGz38Pb2Xi21USqxSE5rq0RwGjOr8/s320/pixaxe-ftdi.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>It turns out that the RX and TX signals need to be inverted to program the PICAXE. This is not a problem since there is a tool to make that change for you at <a href="https://ftdichip.com/utilities/">FTDICHIP.com</a> it is call FT_PROG (Windows).</p><p>Unzip FTProg tool, and run FT_PROG.exe. Select Devices >> Scan and Parse, or just hit F5.</p><p>Your FTDI device will show up in the device tree. click the + next to Hardware_Specific, then click on Invert_RS232_Signals. Check the first 4 properties;</p><p>Invert TXD</p><p>Invert RXD</p><p>Invert RTS#</p><p>Invert CTS#</p><p>Click Devices >> Program or just hit CTRL + P</p><p>The Program Devices Dialog will appear. Check the device to program, then click Program. </p><p>This is very quick, but remember once you do this step, it will remain this way so, if you need to use it for something else you will need to revert this change.</p><p>As an alternative, you could use two inverters from a CD4049 hex inverter chip on the TX/RX lines and then you would not need the FTDI to be reprogrammed. I have not tested this yet, but it should work.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCHxMQQyzo6vCwtdVlSVOjde8ILWDDv6H0opL6z4ArvqsEFwfnRrnOwBXWxLDacs7kB-1AWax810o-ti2C9i5FosuIWUHO22f-PLQqwfaGgHp6tkcpdXaWAG8jXcVPzhiHJpI_inNHW5_f74qw2PkLw-YjjdFxUfbeGKNs6c_mCfFx-cw5WfmkRcQ/s383/pixaxe-ftdi_inv.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="254" data-original-width="383" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCHxMQQyzo6vCwtdVlSVOjde8ILWDDv6H0opL6z4ArvqsEFwfnRrnOwBXWxLDacs7kB-1AWax810o-ti2C9i5FosuIWUHO22f-PLQqwfaGgHp6tkcpdXaWAG8jXcVPzhiHJpI_inNHW5_f74qw2PkLw-YjjdFxUfbeGKNs6c_mCfFx-cw5WfmkRcQ/s320/pixaxe-ftdi_inv.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-15879292597617340242022-09-21T21:20:00.000-07:002022-09-21T21:20:39.393-07:00Bread Board PBX (BB_PBX)<p><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #24292f; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Segoe UI, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, Apple Color Emoji, Segoe UI Emoji;">I have been experimenting with the construction of a simple telephone Private Branch Exchange (PBX) using ready made telephony, audio WAV/MP3 players,and DTMF decoder modules built on a set of bread boards. You could probably buy a small PBX but what is more fun than building your own and writing the software to drive it?</span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #24292f; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, "Apple Color Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji"; font-size: 16px;">The modules are connected to a <a href="https://geoffg.net/micromite.html">Micromite</a> PIC32 microcontroller that is running an embedded BASIC called MMBasic. I am using the 28 Pin PIC32 Micromite. I am very amazed by it capabilities.</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #24292f; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, "Apple Color Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji"; font-size: 16px;">To make it easier to develop on the BB_PBX I have a ESP8266 D1 Mini connected to the serial console of the PIC32 and am running <a href="https://github.com/jeelabs/esp-link">ESP-LINK: Wifi-Serial Bridge</a> firmware. This allows me to telnet to the BB_PBX and use the built-in editor on the Micromite to edit the code on my PC.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLx2G96aiOAxHd2QXLSDSdnnAtqMXtwSs2TXlsKq9fTDmhTxGLNbRucdJTcS17A9dvY18rveTkjCCoRSGwS07jLaGjcIEzwzd7-ODJGTio8AhFbFVYJxLIHACPJdE2r0urQKV8oCPuWTxwIHK5z_D1dKmYEc3od1gYA7lkCka8rbWk2dZViRqPC64J/s887/telnet_bb_pbx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="887" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLx2G96aiOAxHd2QXLSDSdnnAtqMXtwSs2TXlsKq9fTDmhTxGLNbRucdJTcS17A9dvY18rveTkjCCoRSGwS07jLaGjcIEzwzd7-ODJGTio8AhFbFVYJxLIHACPJdE2r0urQKV8oCPuWTxwIHK5z_D1dKmYEc3od1gYA7lkCka8rbWk2dZViRqPC64J/s320/telnet_bb_pbx.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #24292f; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, "Apple Color Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji"; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #24292f; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, "Apple Color Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji"; font-size: 16px;">I don't have much working yet but I have developed most of the BASIC subroutines to make it work. I have exercised the ringing and control of the telephony modules, pulse dialing, and control of the SDCard audio player.</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #24292f; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, "Apple Color Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji"; font-size: 16px;"><a href="https://github.com/wa6pzb/BB_PBX.git">See my github</a> for more detail on the code and modules<br /></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNPCB-sXIA_UHWKs7Jt8aji1MdrytNiGDFpa83VS9t-rtEw-IJTTXfEwigzTLCf-0fB7Ku8SDD2zrCDvdiaQCsDhPHt2qipl7DjqUD2xNwA_l2nlfORkeb0Zr6UotyelXiMvKzTCAtQJ4CKMXSruFOoSQEpOxxfqIfvuSTQXVMAU0Ehc_0I99rhI6H/s3130/bb_pbx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3130" data-original-width="2814" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNPCB-sXIA_UHWKs7Jt8aji1MdrytNiGDFpa83VS9t-rtEw-IJTTXfEwigzTLCf-0fB7Ku8SDD2zrCDvdiaQCsDhPHt2qipl7DjqUD2xNwA_l2nlfORkeb0Zr6UotyelXiMvKzTCAtQJ4CKMXSruFOoSQEpOxxfqIfvuSTQXVMAU0Ehc_0I99rhI6H/s320/bb_pbx.jpg" width="288" /></a></div><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #24292f; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, "Apple Color Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji"; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span><p></p>WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-42457899792556094162021-12-06T18:38:00.002-08:002021-12-06T18:38:52.165-08:00Simple Analog Servo Loop<p> I am working on a simple proportional servo loop using a 741 Op Amp and a complimentary pair of transistors TIP41 & TIP42. This circuit and hardware was inspired by <a href="http://www.n3ox.net/projects/servo/" target="_blank">n3ox</a> and his web post.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4cMJD9Lvp36SaF-47PAQoep9WK4kp8pSURTw52gNRKiyGlqLuMMzYT0KX5Ar8BeB7SzgQV4LvViRJCPGRHRKuoXO4Q9h7HI_f4qX5tXCmjvDA7teyo-1GNTiEORMWOSRU33tm4YdYwPE/s640/IMG_1110.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="359" data-original-width="640" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4cMJD9Lvp36SaF-47PAQoep9WK4kp8pSURTw52gNRKiyGlqLuMMzYT0KX5Ar8BeB7SzgQV4LvViRJCPGRHRKuoXO4Q9h7HI_f4qX5tXCmjvDA7teyo-1GNTiEORMWOSRU33tm4YdYwPE/w421-h237/IMG_1110.PNG" width="421" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I am using the AdaFruit TT motor --> <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3777?gclid=CjwKCAiAhreNBhAYEiwAFGGKPJNLhBPa9hn4z_HFvlD9pF5TRZ8jwKmTmm3aml3izZb6wMctieGMcRoCv6kQAvD_BwE" target="_blank">HERE</a> tied into a ~ 1:3 LEGO gear reduction box that drives the motor position potentiomter.</p><p>So far, this is just proportional control but I intent to expand it to full <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller" target="_blank">PID</a>.</p><p>I have been experimenting with the proportional gain between 5 and 10, higher than that it gets unstable. I am having an issue with very slow changes were it stops moving even if I increase the position pot R1 to a much greater value. Bumping the drive system gets it to correct, so I don't know if this is a stall issue or a "dead spot" condition with the DC motor. I am just using single turn pots that do have a bit of drag and low resolution, I will be switching them out soon with 10-turn units next.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyuDad4dlc9czK8aTuwxL_ClCSPkn9MODmeIH96kXrWimEBUgGQTrklsnrZr8FNs0GBbE_GoCWWOHN67YtN5qsIMMi7_74e7Y8u6COLQM52XyYLZJRkO_geibPh8Vmvg95XLl65wAwquU/s946/Screenshot+from+2021-12-06+18.09.02.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="946" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyuDad4dlc9czK8aTuwxL_ClCSPkn9MODmeIH96kXrWimEBUgGQTrklsnrZr8FNs0GBbE_GoCWWOHN67YtN5qsIMMi7_74e7Y8u6COLQM52XyYLZJRkO_geibPh8Vmvg95XLl65wAwquU/w486-h287/Screenshot+from+2021-12-06+18.09.02.png" width="486" /></a></div><br /><p>73</p>WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-12788946638843212402021-06-27T13:13:00.005-07:002021-06-27T13:15:22.128-07:00<h1 style="text-align: left;"><b>Receiving ISS SSTV Images from the ISS</b></h1><h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 22px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0.75em 0px 0px; position: relative;"><a href="http://ariss-sstv.blogspot.com/2021/06/ariss-amateur-radio-on-shuttle-mir-and.html" style="color: #33aaff; text-decoration-line: none;">ARISS "Amateur radio on Shuttle, Mir and ISS" SSTV event - June 21-26</a></h3><div><br /></div><div>Myself and several of the folks on our High Altitude Balloon Group copied almost all 12 images that were sent this week. Just a ground plane antenna or even a HT with a rubber duckie could copy the transmissions in most cases.</div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWSYbU5gN_9XzZ177erAbx92TV4cQd4z5N18XS3W0N7GlN6yE84IIGt0x_vT7JYhJ9XsmtdXEIrIKUA5_3KOVqa5BsPknhEJKn6YApM8yCIbvP1KuKhWYvvOuR9n41NRrb3-5A9VCl36E/s644/ISS.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="644" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWSYbU5gN_9XzZ177erAbx92TV4cQd4z5N18XS3W0N7GlN6yE84IIGt0x_vT7JYhJ9XsmtdXEIrIKUA5_3KOVqa5BsPknhEJKn6YApM8yCIbvP1KuKhWYvvOuR9n41NRrb3-5A9VCl36E/s320/ISS.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b><p></p>WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-7253461084704072172019-12-09T12:44:00.000-08:002019-12-09T12:44:51.231-08:001802 Membership Card - LoaderI can now load anything into my "all memory" 1802 Membership Card. I located this fine work by Don Meyer on his loader built using an Arduino <a href="https://bitbucket.org/don/cosmac-1802-membershipcard-loader/src/master/">HERE</a>.<br />
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I had everything I needed for this build except the MCP23017 Port Expander chip (Adafruit PRODUCT ID: 732).<br />
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I am using a Teensy 2.0 as a USB to Serial adapter to connect to the 1802 Membership Card serial port. The example sketch to perform this function is included with the Teensy 2.0 and under File>Examples>Teensy>USB_Serial>USBtoSerial in the Arduino IDE software.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIwMmU3zYP9r3Vq2v0hMKGekTt2-ThDlmP8ofWrpHML213P5S6dCg3asRJI9r7F3aAKvDLn8SQ1qNH_fQ-FeKG2_GCL4zUHeuuIO1hgbKOGYkHbJtLRC2aT1fWg-Jcjo8KkiuWtlI-cQ/s1600/MC_Loader.GIF" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="270" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIwMmU3zYP9r3Vq2v0hMKGekTt2-ThDlmP8ofWrpHML213P5S6dCg3asRJI9r7F3aAKvDLn8SQ1qNH_fQ-FeKG2_GCL4zUHeuuIO1hgbKOGYkHbJtLRC2aT1fWg-Jcjo8KkiuWtlI-cQ/s320/MC_Loader.GIF" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 14px;">I am now successfully running the Super Monitor and BASIC3 with no issues using the bin file here --> http://www.sunrise-ev.com/MembershipCard/MCSMP20B.bin via the Serial port on the 1802 Membership card.</span></span>WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-81114152467702648192019-10-21T18:50:00.001-07:002019-10-21T18:51:37.609-07:001802 Membership Card (For me and you and the 1802)I built the <a href="http://www.sunrise-ev.com/membershipcard.htm">1802 Membership Card</a> this weekend and had a blast playing around with it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-LUNdb_qZi4j6lVQmwMoPg0lEOVhb3ugvCM0leBSAD_jKvcnnsgifhRaIyMHYot5SxRpCvhh0IWUw4_fzAW8dyUJRGU_TFZXQ0sQ5Y27XC1rMcJJsLH7q3t7A5plSe7bbaxVH8sVzMI/s1600/MC1802.GIF" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="303" data-original-width="359" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-LUNdb_qZi4j6lVQmwMoPg0lEOVhb3ugvCM0leBSAD_jKvcnnsgifhRaIyMHYot5SxRpCvhh0IWUw4_fzAW8dyUJRGU_TFZXQ0sQ5Y27XC1rMcJJsLH7q3t7A5plSe7bbaxVH8sVzMI/s320/MC1802.GIF" width="320" /></a></div>
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It has been 4 decades since I ran code on this processor. Lee Hart has done a great job with this kit.<br />
Next step is to go beyond the "blink" Q hello world and get a Monitor and Tiny Basic running over the serial port.WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-57450454646423185202019-03-25T20:00:00.000-07:002019-03-25T20:04:48.733-07:00Balloon Payload PackageI have been working on another balloon payload package. This time it will be based on a TeensyLC MCU and transmit on HF radio using the 10 meter band with telemetry encoded with FT8. I am just getting the basic design worked out now but my working code is uploaded to GitHub <a href="https://github.com/wa6pzb/R2P2-Block-1">HERE</a>.<br />
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I spent a bit of time figuring out how to generate a 10 digit Maidenhead Grid value. The details of the Maidenhead Grid system on <a href="https://github.com/tylert/maidenhead">THIS</a> GitHub page were very helpful. My Maidenhead Grid code can be directly accessed <a href="https://github.com/wa6pzb/R2P2-Block-1/blob/master/TeensyLC/gridPrint.ino">HERE</a>.<br />
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I hope to do testing with the payload package with a kite and then a balloon launch by summer.WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-16367239578310871862018-12-01T15:42:00.001-08:002018-12-01T15:50:24.284-08:00WSPR Weather Telemetry BeaconOver the past few months I have been working on a simple weather station to transmit temperature and humidity data via HF Radio. I am using components I already had like an Arduino UNO, serial GPS, Adafruit Si5351 clock, etc.<br />
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The first version used JT65 and the <a href="https://github.com/etherkit/JTEncode">JTEncode</a> library with the telemetry encoded into the 13 character message field but I later decided to use WSPR after discovering a telemetry method described <a href="http://qrp-labs.com/ultimate3/ve3kcl-balloons/ve3kcl-s4.html#protocol">HERE</a> and <a href="http://hojoham.blogspot.com/2016/03/wisp1-telemetry.html">HERE</a>. The key take away for me was the use of call signs starting with zero "0" or "Q"<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px;">. </span></span>Since I just need to send temperature and humidity I will not be using the suggested more complex encoding method.<br />
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Normal WSPR Frame is:<br />
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<<b>call sign</b>> <<b>grid</b>> <<b>dbm</b>><br />
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Example:<br />
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<b>WA6PZB DM03 13 </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
My Telemetry Frame is :<br />
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<<b>0A0hhh</b>> <<b>Rttt</b>> <<b>dbm</b>><br />
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Example:<br />
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<b>0A0CEF RR20 13</b><br />
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I will fix the prefix of the call sign field to <b>0A0</b> (you could change the last digit for more channels if needed) then use the next three characters of the call sign for humidity and use the grid field for temperature. The data values will have only 3 significant figures and will be multiplied by 10 to remove the decimal point.<br />
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<b>Humidity</b> is encoded with the letters A to Z (A=1,B=2,C=3...,Z=0), here are a few examples:<br />
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<b>35.6 %</b> = times 10 = 356 = CEF full call sign becomes --> <b>0A0CEF</b><br />
<b>50.0%</b> = times 10 = 500 = EZZ full call sign becomes --> <b>0A0EZZ</b><br />
<b>80.3%</b> = times 10 = 803 = HZC full call sign becomes --> <b>0A0HZC</b><br />
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<b>Temperature</b> (in Celsius) is encoded with the first two digits using the numbers of the grid and the last digit as letters A to R (A=1, B=2,C=3..., R=0) as the second letter of the grid with the first letter fixed to "R" since it is not needed , here are a few examples:<br />
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19.4 C = times 10 = 194 = D19 full grid becomes --> <b>RD19</b><br />
20.0 C = times 10 = 200 = R20 full grid becomes --> <b>RR20</b><br />
23.5 C = times 10 = 235 = E23 full grid becomes --> <b>RE23</b><br />
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The full weather report will be two WSPR transmissions. The first is a normal message (for Identification) followed by the telemetry frame:<br />
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0200 7.040165 <b>WA6PZB DM03 13 </b><-- Identification<br />
0204<b> </b>7.040165<b> </b><b>0A0CEF RR20 13 </b><-- Telemetry channel 0<br />
<b><br /></b>
This data can be extracted from the WSJT-X application log directory in the file <b>WSPR_ALL.txt</b><br />
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<b><br /></b></div>
As mentioned above you could have multiple telemetry channels and as long as you ID every 10 minutes you could fit several more channels. For example:<br />
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0200 7.040165 <b>WA6PZB DM03 13 </b><br />
0204<b> </b>7.040165<b> </b><b>0A0CEF RR20 13 </b><-- Channel 0<br />
0206<b> </b>7.040165<b> 0A1EZZ </b><b>RD19</b><b> 13 </b><-- Channel 1<br />
0208<b> </b>7.040165<b> 0A2HZC</b> <b>RE23</b><b> 13 </b><-- Channel 2<br />
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<u>Hardware Description</u><br />
<u><br /></u>
The hardware consists of the Arduino UNO connected to a serial GPS receiver, an <a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-si7021-temperature-plus-humidity-sensor">Si7021 temperature and humidity sensor</a> and a <a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-si5351-clock-generator-breakout">Si5351 clock generator</a>. The Si5351 generates approximate 10 mW to 20mW and when connected to a Low Pass Filter (LPF) like <a href="https://www.qrp-labs.com/lpfkit.html">THIS</a> it will produce a clean signal that can be heard for thousands of miles with a decent antenna. I originally tried a basic DHT11 temperature and humidity sensor but the libraries conflicted with the Si5351 library. The Si7021 sensor is more accurate and works well with the Si5351 and is on the same I2C bus since the default addresses are different.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoOOgeUezhx8f3RFWMn9bbv-JJe2eNagit4QhLfdLxazkm9pmkzXuScDO7vypFSoaLP8mxmiqHlXTor05a7k4wnydeM9BIIskFiK1hmdepVf8kQi6zR3FOr3Osd9DG2EzCP_6GpcQae3w/s1600/WSPR_Block.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="740" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoOOgeUezhx8f3RFWMn9bbv-JJe2eNagit4QhLfdLxazkm9pmkzXuScDO7vypFSoaLP8mxmiqHlXTor05a7k4wnydeM9BIIskFiK1hmdepVf8kQi6zR3FOr3Osd9DG2EzCP_6GpcQae3w/s320/WSPR_Block.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<u>Software Description</u><br />
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As normal the software took a bit longer. This projects uses multiple libraries and would not be possible without all those great people that built them for us to use (I am just standing on the shoulders of giants!). I am using <a href="http://arduiniana.org/libraries/tinygps/">TinyGPS</a> which makes working with GPS strings simple and of course <a href="https://github.com/etherkit/JTEncode">JTEncode</a> to generate the WSPR messages. I did encounter some issues with decoding my early JT65 messages and came across KJ6FO's blog <a href="http://squirrelengineering.com/high-altitude-balloon/adrift-problem-solving-fs2-wspr-drift/">HERE</a> that fixed my issue (and hair pulling) so I carried that over to the WSPR code as well. Basically I read the GPS and wait for the top of the hour, 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 minutes past the hour and send my identification WSPR frame followed by my Telemetry frame. The code is far from optimized but it is working for me. I need to make some minor timing adjustments for the start of the first frame and between frames because I actually start processing before the actual times so that the time spent on checking the time and getting the sensor readings give me the lead time to end as close as I can to the exact second (we need to be within +/- 2 seconds).<br />
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My version 1.0 code is on Github --> <a href="https://github.com/wa6pzb/Firmware-WSPR_Telemetry_Beacon">HERE</a>. I included as many comments as possible to help me and anyone else working with it. I ran this with the Arduino 1.8.0 IDE along with the needed libraries. Just the call sign and grid will need to be changed to use it with the same hardware.<br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></span>WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-30217045657067839812018-08-11T15:05:00.001-07:002018-08-11T15:05:20.463-07:00Projectile Motion with Analog ComputersAfter some recent study of old Analog Computers <a href="http://www.analogmuseum.org/">HERE</a> I thought I would try to get some feel of how to work with them using a software implementation.<br />
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I found the Open Source tool <a href="https://www.scilab.org/en/scilab/features/xcos">Scilab</a> that has a module called Xcos that is a graphical editor to design hybrid dynamical systems models very similar to the analog computer functional blocks.<br />
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I was interested in the projectile motion problem that the old <a href="http://www.analogmuseum.org/library/heathkit_ec1_operation_manual.pdf">Heathkit EC-1</a> was able to do, that is outlined in the manual on page 27. The analog Op Amps were vacuum tubes in a EC-1 !<br />
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After spending more than half of my time figuring out the software and how it worked I was able to get something close. Below is the XY plot of a projectile launched at a 80 degree angle with an initial impulse and gravity.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjZF2_P9KwCfm2zE69ipc-Xv8o2sR0IotmCVvnydWZWBdQNKqxMqST4Xv7VIlftl0v4nbRgRYreXYGBy4TTSp7RVQzZy_rqRQVEzEajP9O0bzpisHQ-wdnlwCga38LVL_SIadMptVdUg/s1600/plot.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="264" data-original-width="468" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjZF2_P9KwCfm2zE69ipc-Xv8o2sR0IotmCVvnydWZWBdQNKqxMqST4Xv7VIlftl0v4nbRgRYreXYGBy4TTSp7RVQzZy_rqRQVEzEajP9O0bzpisHQ-wdnlwCga38LVL_SIadMptVdUg/s320/plot.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The diagram of the configuration is shown below.<br />
Scilab is a very powerful tool and I have just scratched the surface of its capabilities with the use of the Xcos module. I was running this on a Ubuntu virtual machine so it was not super fast.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1nSVjgkfThZ-lqLqvPFREiY37e6x3w8Ej5BAglAFQGdPNqVSjVMVim0HQJgxxwYqa8vBJLPKWHhVC-CneQIfm9xK11RkhVTU08jX1EJUML7wlqGmTJeyZe31XR9vKcN0Yg3M8miYPIis/s1600/xCos.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="639" data-original-width="1106" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1nSVjgkfThZ-lqLqvPFREiY37e6x3w8Ej5BAglAFQGdPNqVSjVMVim0HQJgxxwYqa8vBJLPKWHhVC-CneQIfm9xK11RkhVTU08jX1EJUML7wlqGmTJeyZe31XR9vKcN0Yg3M8miYPIis/s320/xCos.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I would like to experience this setup on a physical analog computer since the plots are not real-time and are not on a oscilloscope like "in the day". I think I am missing the faster iterations and interactivity of the true analog system with the wiring board, meters and oscilloscope :-)WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-91010116632795013852018-08-10T12:13:00.001-07:002018-08-10T12:13:56.819-07:00Simple ADS-B MonitoringI tried out some Linux software tools on a x86 box with my old USB SDR dongle recently and wondered if I could do the same things with a Raspberry Pi ZeroW since the power requirements are much less than a PC or Laptop.<br />
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The SDR tools I was interested in are <a href="https://github.com/merbanan/rtl_433">rtl_433</a> and <a href="https://github.com/antirez/dump1090">dump1080</a> .<br />
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I stumbled across a web <a href="https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/track-overhead-flights-raspberry-pi-zero-w-software-defined-radio/">resource</a> that was basically using dump1080 on a Raspberry Pi Zero just like I wanted. The difference was that this was a modified version of dump1080 for use with <a href="https://flightaware.com/">flightaware</a>.<br />
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In the end this was a benefit since running a ground station for flightaware gives you free access to a Enterprise account on their site.<br />
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I am running this basically 24x7 now with the simple hardware below. The USB battery is constantly being charged from the line as a basic UPS. Unfortunately this USB battery drops the output when charge power is removed or inserted so it is really not a UPS (so the Pi reboots) but since I am using a <a href="http://dietpi.com/">dietpi image</a> for the Raspberry Pi, Dietpi is configured to put all the logs in memory and not on the SD card and I believe corruption is minimized. I have observed excellent uptime.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFqyFDfYGNOLCfYZAIKeRr5sK1ZySxv_nsrgC2Gy0BBI-UfUDLjF3QBojH8bBP_qIdJn01cmaT78i__Vk8vRD051wBU7n2btjEjCFSl0hyyl8oaJK7cVLNQDRk0vV_XLm0LpPUJ1nHrJ4/s1600/ADS_B.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1573" data-original-width="1600" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFqyFDfYGNOLCfYZAIKeRr5sK1ZySxv_nsrgC2Gy0BBI-UfUDLjF3QBojH8bBP_qIdJn01cmaT78i__Vk8vRD051wBU7n2btjEjCFSl0hyyl8oaJK7cVLNQDRk0vV_XLm0LpPUJ1nHrJ4/s320/ADS_B.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The basic recipe to get this up and running with the above hardware is to install DietPi --> <a href="https://dietpi.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9#p9">HERE</a> you can script the setup of the Wifi so it can be completely "headless" and no need to fumble with a keyboard and monitor. Then after about 30 minutes you can SSH in and run the below commands and you will be operational.<br />
<pre style="background-color: #eeeeee; border: 1px dashed #999999; color: black; font-family: "andale mono" , "lucida console" , "monaco" , "fixed" , monospace; font-size: 12px; line-height: 14px; overflow: auto; padding: 5px; width: 100%;"> <code style="color: black; word-wrap: normal;">
wget http://flightaware.com/adsb/piaware/files/packages/pool/piaware/p/piaware-support/piaware-repository_3.3.0_all.deb
sudo dpkg -i piaware-repository_3.3.0_all.deb
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get dist-upgrade -y
sudo apt-get install -y piaware fail2ban libio-socket-ssl-perl
sudo piaware-config allow-auto-updates yes
sudo piaware-config allow-manual-updates yes
sudo apt-get install dump1090-fa -y
sudo reboot
</code>
</pre>
WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-67197683286069302622018-07-02T19:07:00.000-07:002018-07-02T19:12:04.662-07:00More ESP8266 funI continue to test and validate the stability of Node Red, MQTT (on Rasp Pi Zero) and SONOFF devices with various firmware loads as a home automation platform.<br />
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This past weekend at the <a href="http://w6trw.com/index.php/w6trw-amateur-radio-club-swap-meet/">TRW Swap Meet</a> I picked up a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/ESP8266-Development-NodeMCU-CH340G-Shield/dp/B075VMLRKS">LoLin V3 NodeMcu Lua CH340G ESP8266</a> development board for $8 from Tim who is there nearly every month and has many cool Arduino and other micro-controller items. This board is cool because it is a ESP8266, has a built in FTDI USB interface all in a nice break-out board. After doing some quick googling I found many resources to get going with this board. The following are my steps:<br />
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1.) Download serial driver for LoLin Board --> <a href="http://www.wch.cn/download/CH341SER_EXE.html">HERE</a><br />
2.) Configure/check-out the board using the Arduino IDE (I'm using v1.8.1) from this site --> <a href="http://henrysbench.capnfatz.com/henrys-bench/arduino-projects-tips-and-more/arduino-esp8266-lolin-nodemcu-getting-started/">HERE</a><br />
3.) WebServer to control LED from this site --> <a href="https://www.teachmemicro.com/simple-nodemcu-web-server/">HERE</a><br />
4.) MQTT DHT code --> <a href="http://osoyoo.com/2016/11/24/use-nodemcu-to-send-temperaturehumidity-data-to-mqtt-iot-broker/">HERE</a> , I then modified it for JSON message format <a href="https://github.com/wa6pzb/Firmware/tree/master/LoLin_ESP8266_Board_MQTT">HERE</a><br />
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With step 4, we have our own Arduino IDE based MQTT code running on the ESP8266<br />
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I created a Node Red flow <a href="https://github.com/wa6pzb/Node-Red/blob/master/DHT11_MQTT_Dashboard">HERE</a> to monitor the DHT sensors to chart the message that are sent every minute.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqU2qxVxEJZI9bUyPsGYhYUnhY_9EL7e4nWLw67MDw-at2yxB8S8kUcJwPuTnkWGNjuxDKtQHDUOtr4PJp86ezCrHLHIndRGNAqEGXwS9on7TShZw2id0i4B8YXe6lg9WALXK2pGh7KU/s1600/nr_flow.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="859" height="119" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqU2qxVxEJZI9bUyPsGYhYUnhY_9EL7e4nWLw67MDw-at2yxB8S8kUcJwPuTnkWGNjuxDKtQHDUOtr4PJp86ezCrHLHIndRGNAqEGXwS9on7TShZw2id0i4B8YXe6lg9WALXK2pGh7KU/s320/nr_flow.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I was able to build this Node Red dashboard.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKOeUDS5FXg14z2QNc0MgPjgoKqQz_QC4KYtW21129nBxedh4PgXsy4E5WTxRhoLahqsZVuLZBUJlRvDYfp4X1yrLdc7nRvMSJTCN8n0Msfp0TkkJLlYgjuUHhMLbcP8Jj1zDYfShIxy4/s1600/nr_dash.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="543" data-original-width="330" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKOeUDS5FXg14z2QNc0MgPjgoKqQz_QC4KYtW21129nBxedh4PgXsy4E5WTxRhoLahqsZVuLZBUJlRvDYfp4X1yrLdc7nRvMSJTCN8n0Msfp0TkkJLlYgjuUHhMLbcP8Jj1zDYfShIxy4/s320/nr_dash.JPG" width="194" /></a></div>
<br />
I am now running <a href="https://github.com/xoseperez/espurna/wiki">ESPurna</a> v1.13.0 firmware on one of my SONOFF basics and so far I believe it is simpler than Tasmota for setup and operation. I am now running it to see how it looks as far as uptime and hangs. I was getting restarts of Tasmota every day or so and recently hard hangs that required me to reset them and reconfigure it back on the network.<br />
<br />WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-32272895506746087092018-04-24T16:47:00.001-07:002018-04-24T16:53:16.127-07:00More SONFF, Node Red, and MQTT testingBelow is my simple lash up of the DHT-11 sensor to the basic SONOFF switch using the unused GPIO. I am powering it via the FTDI board. This works great for the sensor and LED on the SONOFF but does not fully operate the relay. I did this so I could range test the Wifi and actually had it powered by a USB battery pack. The range was great, good signal in the house and back yard.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Pd29uTZfx5XAlM9C9qkx4hvKC-MvtVSLJiWBEKxwm15seM2Qb9rOSc6jOPAYqbLznD5vjzKZWJtbthDOn5EGy1MjBoyfMOKfEMgouMHIMDxpSn8IeEz54CuHiB41MGmutdaP8V_KtIQ/s1600/snoff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="920" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Pd29uTZfx5XAlM9C9qkx4hvKC-MvtVSLJiWBEKxwm15seM2Qb9rOSc6jOPAYqbLznD5vjzKZWJtbthDOn5EGy1MjBoyfMOKfEMgouMHIMDxpSn8IeEz54CuHiB41MGmutdaP8V_KtIQ/s320/snoff.jpg" width="230" /></a></div>
The Node Red UI screen below shows the use of the chart function to plot the WiFi signal level and DHT-11 temperature. The Node Red code is <a href="https://github.com/wa6pzb/Node-Red">HERE</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLllam4q2VuLn1dOCrArwHGdF-Js6zEDCz1iBohKGzFbRSCUFFL_7q_YexfMz4N0IIv2Qrl3ia9LuF6kpW6kNMdcu8rMc9T9RUikYwLe9p1ScyJsJZ8gKWitlTQHZ8Fat5Zx75Kv6XpcY/s1600/CaptureUI.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="763" data-original-width="621" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLllam4q2VuLn1dOCrArwHGdF-Js6zEDCz1iBohKGzFbRSCUFFL_7q_YexfMz4N0IIv2Qrl3ia9LuF6kpW6kNMdcu8rMc9T9RUikYwLe9p1ScyJsJZ8gKWitlTQHZ8Fat5Zx75Kv6XpcY/s320/CaptureUI.JPG" width="260" /></a></div>
<br />WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-40881741297919567092018-04-03T19:13:00.002-07:002018-04-03T19:17:58.258-07:00SONOFF Wireless switches, Node-RED, Tasmota, and MQTTI have been busy playing with SONOFF wireless switches, both the Basic and the 4CH. I have developed some Arduino IDE based firmware for both devices here on <a href="https://github.com/wa6pzb/Firmware">GitHub</a>,<br />
<br />
I am also looking at an alternative to OpenHAB for home automation using <a href="https://nodered.org/">Node-RED</a> (the coolest software I have ever seen to date) and <a href="https://mosquitto.org/">MQTT Mosquitto</a> all running on <a href="https://www.docker.com/">Docker</a>. I am running it on a PC with <a href="https://www.vagrantup.com/">Vagrant</a> but I would like to move it to Raspberry Pi Zero W. The idea being two or more running a Docker swarm for the Node-RED and MQTT services. I want to figure out a way to make it highly available using something like <a href="http://www.keepalived.org/">Keepalived</a>. My Node-RED flows are here on<a href="https://github.com/wa6pzb/Node-Red">GitHub</a>. Today I just loaded the alternate firmware for the SONOFF's --> <a href="https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki">Tasmota</a>. It is very powerful. So far I got the MQTT mode working with Node-RED and I added a DHT11 sensor (super cool).WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-34354303604976845792018-01-24T17:55:00.003-08:002018-01-30T17:06:18.934-08:00Digi-Comp I v2.0This last weekend I built my Digi-Comp I v2.0 which is a replica of a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digi-Comp_I">Digi-Comp I</a> which was first released back in 1963.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdi4MlVouIoFvdsJP6X9DuyS8Up1ZvaWWcVVM4nqtwgPcTKyNfG6EDwOl5CYIt_w1q9q1GwBdcHcjUsHKfpRePoPbqmqGiHEuAyWdWtqhAIkOVkI618NAgi3Ew_BXGFpngyCIqWe4xmMk/s1600/IMG_3322.GIF" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="306" data-original-width="408" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdi4MlVouIoFvdsJP6X9DuyS8Up1ZvaWWcVVM4nqtwgPcTKyNfG6EDwOl5CYIt_w1q9q1GwBdcHcjUsHKfpRePoPbqmqGiHEuAyWdWtqhAIkOVkI618NAgi3Ew_BXGFpngyCIqWe4xmMk/s320/IMG_3322.GIF" width="320" /></a></div>
The Digi-Comp I v2.0 available from <a href="http://mindsontoys.com/kits.htm?dc1_main.htm">Minds-On Toys</a> is made of cardboard verses the plastic of the original. Since originals are hard to come by, this is good alternative. I am still tuning it mechanically but the picture above is basically alternately toggling the A and B flip-flops. It is of course hand operated and the GIF is stop motion without my hand in view :-).<br />
<br />
It is great entertainment to researching vintage computing toys and actually being able to own one and build it, to understand it with your own hands is even better.WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-26449750589724273882017-07-11T12:52:00.000-07:002017-07-11T12:52:01.533-07:00Camper Build IXThe basic build of the folding camper is complete. The panels are insulated and I have begun painting. I decided not to fiberglass. I am using a high quality house paint, The painting and finishing takes time and you can spend as much or as little on it, but it is directly proportional to how it will look in the end. I am trying to strike a balance because I want it get it on the truck and use it soon.<br />
<br />
The top, front and side panels will be ultra white. It is taking between 3 and 4 coats to get good thick coverage. The bottom half and underside will be either black or desert tan, maybe forest green, I am still deciding. The inside may not get painted until I use it a few times but I plan to urethane the floor. The interior walls may be what ever color of extra paint I have from other house projects :-)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4RsskzMQXybF28Eqr81NmvvSXmiVEg3wRdi9jtSBnt4GN_ak4zTIyc-WXtnVkt4PdntDLQwn7XgTYgs5MVS_iX-GJImBHmjkz_-0zG-HOKkhnJ2WDE3iG1ELs1NReuzpn-7MdpWcmU8U/s1600/IMG_2852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4RsskzMQXybF28Eqr81NmvvSXmiVEg3wRdi9jtSBnt4GN_ak4zTIyc-WXtnVkt4PdntDLQwn7XgTYgs5MVS_iX-GJImBHmjkz_-0zG-HOKkhnJ2WDE3iG1ELs1NReuzpn-7MdpWcmU8U/s320/IMG_2852.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-91291648556485111792017-06-11T20:09:00.001-07:002017-06-11T20:09:29.641-07:00APRS Touch Tone GatewayI have been playing with WB2OSZ Direwolf software, it is very powerful and can act as a APRS Touch Tone gateway. His software ia located <a href="https://github.com/wb2osz/direwolf">HERE</a>.<br />
<br />
I was able to get his code working under windows and using the DTMF decoder it is decoding my 10 digit call sign and a two digit message. This is a new configuration idea suggested by the father of APRS WB4APR, see the new idea below. I just set mine up on a simplex radio for testing.<br />
<br />
-----------Bob's new idea! --------------<br />
But here is the NEW idea of how to use its 2 digit message capability<br />
locally...<br />
1) Have it listen from a very high central metro area location for DTMF on<br />
146.58<br />
2) The two-digit messages (01 to 99) can be used to trigger the APRS and<br />
voice response of "CALLSIGN, LISTENING ON XXX.XXX MHz"<br />
3) then ALL APRS mobiles in the area will see the message on their radios<br />
4) AND he messages goes worldwide in the APRS-IS system<br />
5) You could be called back via Echolink for example<br />
6) AND if anyone is monitoring 146.58, they will hear EVERYONE on the air<br />
and where they are listening.<br />
In our area with over 50 repeaters, we are so spread out, hardly any<br />
repeater is being used. But this way, everyone's "presence" on the air is<br />
announced on APRS and the single 146.58 just like APRS was always intended<br />
to be... a single clearing house channel for everything happening in ham<br />
radio.<br />
But now you only need a DTMF radio. Not a full APRS rig.<br />
Oh, we just make a local list 01 to 99 of the different frequencies. Every<br />
local list is different, but so are the repeaters in every local area...<br />
Though I am starting to think it can be quite universal! Wow, Il start<br />
now... for example 76 is 146.76 and 94 is 146.94, etc!<br />
You just program your DTMF memory with the few repeaters you use, and then<br />
sending out your message is just one button. Send the DTMF memory with<br />
your chosen "monitoring frequency!<br />
for more info on APRStt see http://aprs.org/aprstt.html<br />
Bob Bruninga, WB4APR<br />
USNA Satellite LabWA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-49038428987066307062017-06-11T19:06:00.000-07:002017-06-11T19:06:23.663-07:00Camper Build VIIIIt has been a while since I posted in general and regarding the camper build. The build continues a bit each weekend with the following progress:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Windows with slider inserts completed</li>
<li>Insulating of the top and sides</li>
<li>Paneling of the front with door and one side</li>
</ul>
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Here are the windows with screens in, looking in one to the other.</div>
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Here is the basic assembly of the windows using the synthetic wood trim material and the slider guides that are glued to the synthetic wood.</div>
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This is the black plastic sliding door tracks I am using that I got from <a href="https://www.rockler.com/">Rockler</a></div>
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I am finishing up all the insulating with the R-TECH foam.</div>
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Here is the door insulated and sided with 2.7 mm thin door skin plywood.</div>
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Here is one of the sides insulated with the inside sidinging.</div>
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Once I finish the insulation and interior paneling I will begin the exterior finish. I am planning on a light epoxy fiberglass coating and then paint. I still need to work out the door latch assembly and the general weather sealing.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
I am hoping to try it out camping in the late summer as well as fall/winter since it is insulated.</div>
WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-54695987099881250982017-04-17T20:34:00.001-07:002017-04-17T20:34:27.986-07:00Retro Computer FunFor the last couple of months I have been playing with some Retro Computers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>CP/M on a Teensy 3.6 <a href="https://github.com/MockbaTheBorg/RunCPM">RunCPM</a></li>
<li>MMBasic on a <a href="http://circuitgizmos.com/gizmo-store/#!/CGCOLORMAX2-Color-Maximite-Retro-Computer/p/53819402/category=14171440">Circuit Gizmos CGCOLORMAX2</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
I thought CP/M and the various tools on a tiny computer like the Teensy 3.6 would be a perfect low powered non-Internet computer various projects and to be portable. However I still needed a terminal to use CP/M and I wanted some minimal graphic capability too. In search of a small dumb terminal board I stumbled in the the world of Maximite <a href="http://geoffg.net/maximite.html">HERE</a> and MMBasic created by Geoff the genius!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I am now using a Maximite clone (CGCOLORMAX2). It can drive a VGA or composite display directly with great graphics along with a SD card based flash file system, real-time clock and I/O capability. Recently I have been digging into the power of Geoff's MMBasic that runs on the CGCOLORMAX2 (which uses a PIC32). Even though it is a single precision version of BASIC I have had great success in porting some mathematically intensive astronomy programs.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
I have setup my CGCOLORMAX2 to run with a small 4.3 TFT LCD composite display used for backup cameras. The only thing else needed is a PS2 keyboard and DC power to run the board and the monitor (e.g. 12 volts). This setup is running great so far and will do some power consumption tests soon to size the battery pack to make this portable.</div>
WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-87927834989100334882017-01-31T17:10:00.000-08:002019-10-28T18:48:54.399-07:00COSMAC ELF 1802 ClockI am exploring the idea of building a COSMAC ELF 1802 Clock.<br />
<br />
This will be a clock based on the COSMAC ELF 1802 CPU along with some CMOS counters and a time base along with some kind of display.<br />
<br />
The plan is that it will display time, date, and year. Since it is an "ELF clock" it will be describing the instant in time, defined as the number of days since the ELF was first described in Popular Electronic Magazine in August of 1976 (8/1/1976). This will be similar to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unix_time">Unix time</a> but without the resolution down to a second.<br />
<br />
The time keeping element would be a chain of 8 bit CMOS counters, one for seconds, minutes, and days. These counters could be read as input ports from the CPU.<br />
<br />
For software I am trying Tiny Basic to see if it can at least update the display several times per minute. The display will not include seconds in the first revision if using Tiny Basic since it can not complete the calculation fast enough.<br />
<br />
I have written the initial conversion of the day counter to calculate year, month, and day accounting for leap year. With a 1.75 Mhz clock speed using the Emma02 emulator it takes 20 seconds for the 300+ lines of code to complete the calculation. Since Tiny Basic only supports 16 bit integers the clock will have a limit of the year 2065.<br />
<br />
Below is my code so far. I will remove the spaces after it is debugged to save space but for now it has only been slightly space compressed.<br />
<br />
<br />
<pre style="background: #f0f0f0; border: 1px dashed #cccccc; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12px; height: auto; line-height: 20px; overflow: auto; padding: 0px; text-align: left; width: 99%;"><code style="color: black; word-wrap: normal;"> 5 PR "SERIAL EPOCH";
10 INPUT S
20 GOSUB 1000
30 GOSUB 3000
55 REM Y=YEAR L=LEAP TRUE/FALSE P=POSITION IN YEAR(DAYS) M=MONTH D=DAY
60 PR "14:23 ";M;"/";D;"/";Y
65 PR "Y=";Y;" L=";L;" P=";P;" M=";M;" D=";D
100 END
1000 IF S>0Y=1976
1005 IF Y=1976L=1
1007 IF Y=1976P=S-0
1010 IF S>153Y=1977
1015 IF Y=1977L=0
1017 IF Y=1977P=S-153
1020 IF S>518Y=1978
1025 IF Y=1978L=0
1027 IF Y=1978P=S-518
1030 IF S>883Y=1979
1035 IF Y=1979L=0
1037 IF Y=1979P=S-883
1040 IF S>1248Y=1980
1045 IF Y=1980L=1
1047 IF Y=1980P=S-1248
1050 IF S>1614Y=1981
1055 IF Y=1981L=0
1057 IF Y=1981P=S-1614
1060 IF S>1979Y=1982
1065 IF Y=1982L=0
1067 IF Y=1982P=S-1979
1070 IF S>2344Y=1983
1075 IF Y=1983L=0
1077 IF Y=1983P=S-2344
1080 IF S>2709Y=1984
1085 IF Y=1984L=1
1087 IF Y=1984P=S-2709
1090 IF S>3075Y=1985
1095 IF Y=1985L=0
1097 IF Y=1985P=S-3075
1100 IF S>3440Y=1986
1105 IF Y=1986L=0
1107 IF Y=1986P=S-3440
1110 IF S>3805Y=1987
1115 IF Y=1987L=0
1117 IF Y=1987P=S-3805
1120 IF S>4170Y=1988
1125 IF Y=1988L=1
1127 IF Y=1988P=S-4170
1130 IF S>4536Y=1989
1135 IF Y=1989L=0
1137 IF Y=1989P=S-4536
1140 IF S>4901Y=1990
1145 IF Y=1990L=0
1147 IF Y=1990P=S-4901
1150 IF S>5266Y=1991
1155 IF Y=1991L=0
1157 IF Y=1991P=S-5266
1160 IF S>5631Y=1992
1165 IF Y=1992L=1
1167 IF Y=1992P=S-5631
1170 IF S>5997Y=1993
1175 IF Y=1993L=0
1177 IF Y=1993P=S-5997
1180 IF S>6362Y=1994
1185 IF Y=1994L=0
1187 IF Y=1994P=S-6362
1190 IF S>6727Y=1995
1195 IF Y=1995L=0
1197 IF Y=1995P=S-6727
1200 IF S>7092Y=1996
1205 IF Y=1996L=1
1207 IF Y=1996P=S-7092
1210 IF S>7458Y=1997
1215 IF Y=1997L=0
1217 IF Y=1997P=S-7458
1220 IF S>7823Y=1998
1225 IF Y=1998L=0
1227 IF Y=1998P=S-7823
1230 IF S>8188Y=1999
1235 IF Y=1999L=0
1237 IF Y=1999P=S-8188
1240 IF S>8553Y=2000
1245 IF Y=2000L=1
1247 IF Y=2000P=S-8553
1250 IF S>8919Y=2001
1255 IF Y=2001L=0
1257 IF Y=2001P=S-8919
1260 IF S>9284Y=2002
1265 IF Y=2002L=0
1267 IF Y=2002P=S-9284
1270 IF S>9649Y=2003
1275 IF Y=2003L=0
1277 IF Y=2003P=S-9649
1280 IF S>10014Y=2004
1285 IF Y=2004L=1
1287 IF Y=2004P=S-10014
1290 IF S>10380Y=2005
1295 IF Y=2005L=0
1297 IF Y=2005P=S-10380
1300 IF S>10745Y=2006
1305 IF Y=2006L=0
1307 IF Y=2006P=S-10745
1310 IF S>11110Y=2007
1315 IF Y=2007L=0
1317 IF Y=2007P=S-11110
1320 IF S>11475Y=2008
1325 IF Y=2008L=1
1327 IF Y=2008P=S-11475
1330 IF S>11841Y=2009
1335 IF Y=2009L=0
1337 IF Y=2009P=S-11841
1340 IF S>12206Y=2010
1345 IF Y=2010L=0
1347 IF Y=2010P=S-12206
1350 IF S>12571Y=2011
1355 IF Y=2011L=0
1357 IF Y=2011P=S-12571
1360 IF S>12936Y=2012
1365 IF Y=2012L=1
1367 IF Y=2012P=S-12936
1370 IF S>13302Y=2013
1375 IF Y=2013L=0
1377 IF Y=2013P=S-13302
1380 IF S>13667Y=2014
1385 IF Y=2014L=0
1387 IF Y=2014P=S-13667
1390 IF S>14032Y=2015
1395 IF Y=2015L=0
1397 IF Y=2015P=S-14032
1400 IF S>14397Y=2016
1405 IF Y=2016L=1
1407 IF Y=2016P=S-14397
1410 IF S>14763Y=2017
1415 IF Y=2017L=0
1417 IF Y=2017P=S-14763
1420 IF S>15128Y=2018
1425 IF Y=2018L=0
1427 IF Y=2018P=S-15128
1430 IF S>15493Y=2019
1435 IF Y=2019L=0
1437 IF Y=2019P=S-15493
1440 IF S>15858Y=2020
1445 IF Y=2020L=1
1447 IF Y=2020P=S-15858
1450 IF S>16224Y=2021
1455 IF Y=2021L=0
1457 IF Y=2021P=S-16224
1460 IF S>16589Y=2022
1465 IF Y=2022L=0
1467 IF Y=2022P=S-16589
1470 IF S>16954Y=2023
1475 IF Y=2023L=0
1477 IF Y=2023P=S-16954
1480 IF S>17319Y=2024
1485 IF Y=2024L=1
1487 IF Y=2024P=S-17319
1490 IF S>17685Y=2025
1495 IF Y=2025L=0
1497 IF Y=2025P=S-17685
1500 IF S>18050Y=2026
1505 IF Y=2026L=0
1507 IF Y=2026P=S-18050
1510 IF S>18415Y=2027
1515 IF Y=2027L=0
1517 IF Y=2027P=S-18415
1520 IF S>18780Y=2028
1525 IF Y=2028L=1
1527 IF Y=2028P=S-18780
1530 IF S>19146Y=2029
1535 IF Y=2029L=0
1537 IF Y=2029P=S-19146
1540 IF S>19511Y=2030
1545 IF Y=2030L=0
1547 IF Y=2030P=S-19511
1550 IF S>19876Y=2031
1555 IF Y=2031L=0
1557 IF Y=2031P=S-19876
1560 IF S>20241Y=2032
1565 IF Y=2032L=1
1567 IF Y=2032P=S-20241
1570 IF S>20607Y=2033
1575 IF Y=2033L=0
1577 IF Y=2033P=S-20607
1580 IF S>20972Y=2034
1585 IF Y=2034L=0
1587 IF Y=2034P=S-20972
1590 IF S>21337Y=2035
1595 IF Y=2035L=0
1597 IF Y=2035P=S-21337
1600 IF S>21702Y=2036
1605 IF Y=2036L=1
1607 IF Y=2036P=S-21702
1610 IF S>22068Y=2037
1615 IF Y=2037L=0
1617 IF Y=2037P=S-22068
1620 IF S>22433Y=2038
1625 IF Y=2038L=0
1627 IF Y=2038P=S-22433
1630 IF S>22798Y=2039
1635 IF Y=2039L=0
1637 IF Y=2039P=S-22798
1640 IF S>23163Y=2040
1645 IF Y=2040L=1
1647 IF Y=2040P=S-23163
1650 IF S>23529Y=2041
1655 IF Y=2041L=0
1657 IF Y=2041P=S-23529
1660 IF S>23894Y=2042
1665 IF Y=2042L=0
1667 IF Y=2042P=S-23894
1670 IF S>24259Y=2043
1675 IF Y=2043L=0
1677 IF Y=2043P=S-24259
1680 IF S>24624Y=2044
1685 IF Y=2044L=1
1687 IF Y=2044P=S-24624
1690 IF S>24990Y=2045
1695 IF Y=2045L=0
1697 IF Y=2045P=S-24990
1700 IF S>25355Y=2046
1705 IF Y=2046L=0
1707 IF Y=2046P=S-25355
1710 IF S>25720Y=2047
1715 IF Y=2047L=0
1717 IF Y=2047P=S-25720
1720 IF S>26085Y=2048
1725 IF Y=2048L=1
1727 IF Y=2048P=S-26085
1730 IF S>26451Y=2049
1735 IF Y=2049L=0
1737 IF Y=2049P=S-26451
1740 IF S>26816Y=2050
1745 IF Y=2050L=0
1747 IF Y=2050P=S-26816
1750 IF S>27181Y=2051
1755 IF Y=2051L=0
1757 IF Y=2051P=S-27181
1760 IF S>27546Y=2052
1765 IF Y=2052L=1
1767 IF Y=2052P=S-27546
1770 IF S>27912Y=2053
1775 IF Y=2053L=0
1777 IF Y=2053P=S-27912
1780 IF S>28277Y=2054
1785 IF Y=2054L=0
1787 IF Y=2054P=S-28277
1790 IF S>28642Y=2055
1795 IF Y=2055L=0
1797 IF Y=2055P=S-28642
1800 IF S>29007Y=2056
1805 IF Y=2056L=1
1807 IF Y=2056P=S-29007
1810 IF S>29373Y=2057
1815 IF Y=2057L=0
1817 IF Y=2057P=S-29373
1820 IF S>29738Y=2058
1825 IF Y=2058L=0
1827 IF Y=2058P=S-29738
1830 IF S>30103Y=2059
1835 IF Y=2059L=0
1837 IF Y=2059P=S-30103
1840 IF S>30468Y=2060
1845 IF Y=2060L=1
1847 IF Y=2060P=S-30468
1850 IF S>30834Y=2061
1855 IF Y=2061L=0
1857 IF Y=2061P=S-30834
1860 IF S>31199Y=2062
1865 IF Y=2062L=0
1867 IF Y=2062P=S-31199
1870 IF S>31564Y=2063
1875 IF Y=2063L=0
1877 IF Y=2063P=S-31564
1880 IF S>31929Y=2064
1885 IF Y=2064L=1
1887 IF Y=2064P=S-31929
1890 IF S>32295Y=2065
1895 IF Y=2065L=0
1897 IF Y=2065P=S-32295
2000 RETURN
3000 IF Y=1976 L=3
3010 IF L=0 GOSUB 4000
3020 IF L=1 GOSUB 5000
3030 IF L=3 GOSUB 6000
3040 RETURN
4000 IF P>0M=1
4010 IF P>0D=P
4020 IF P>31M=2
4030 IF P>31D=P-31
4040 IF P>59M=3
4050 IF P>59D=P-59
4060 IF P>90M=4
4070 IF P>90D=P-90
4080 IF P>120M=5
4090 IF P>120D=P-120
4100 IF P>151M=6
4110 IF P>151D=P-151
4120 IF P>181M=7
4130 IF P>181D=P-181
4140 IF P>212M=8
4150 IF P>212D=P-212
4160 IF P>243M=9
4170 IF P>243D=P-243
4180 IF P>273M=10
4190 IF P>273D=P-273
4200 IF P>304M=11
4210 IF P>304D=P-304
4220 IF P>334M=12
4230 IF P>334D=P-334
4900 RETURN
5000 IF P>0M=1
5010 IF P>0D=P
5020 IF P>31M=2
5030 IF P>31D=P-31
5040 IF P>60M=3
5050 IF P>60D=P-60
5060 IF P>91M=4
5070 IF P>91D=P-91
5080 IF P>121M=5
5090 IF P>121D=P-121
5100 IF P>152M=6
5110 IF P>152D=P-152
5120 IF P>182M=7
5130 IF P>182D=P-182
5140 IF P>213M=8
5150 IF P>213D=P-213
5160 IF P>244M=9
5170 IF P>244D=P-244
5180 IF P>274M=10
5190 IF P>274D=P-274
5200 IF P>305M=11
5210 IF P>305D=P-305
5220 IF P>335M=12
5230 IF P>335D=P-335
5240 RETURN
6000 RETURN
0
</code></pre>
WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-9811952543800609292017-01-31T16:34:00.001-08:002017-01-31T16:34:18.898-08:00Running 40 year old softwareIt is amazing to be able to run software (code) that is 40 years old. I was able to run code that I have not run since I was a kid in 1978 on my then recently built Netronics ELF kit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASPGrpI0ZBpbcgMzZOQFN8CdeNElFQypOneheIG1ociuRso626RC7kQ98YsL5ZsQAPS3HLHpqlmHZW_tMxI5uFfuiwsA1BCZxfLxO6rg94jKw5U6vUUEC3d1ruRmhN3bFyseZv-Mps8U/s1600/netronics_elf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASPGrpI0ZBpbcgMzZOQFN8CdeNElFQypOneheIG1ociuRso626RC7kQ98YsL5ZsQAPS3HLHpqlmHZW_tMxI5uFfuiwsA1BCZxfLxO6rg94jKw5U6vUUEC3d1ruRmhN3bFyseZv-Mps8U/s320/netronics_elf.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
I have mentioned this emulator before --> <a href="http://www.elf-emulation.com/">http://www.elf-emulation.com/</a> but recently decided to try to get it to run the PIXIE code the was published in Popular Electronic July 1977 issue. The emulator for the COSMAC 1802 CPU can also emulate the CDP1861 PIXIE video chip too. I used the original articles code and created a rom file and loaded it in the emulator and it worked! Below is the image generated and what was display on the TV of the original ELF. The random looking blocks at the top of the image are actually the code that is running to display the image. The PIXIE chip is displaying 256 bytes of memory arranged 8 bytes wide by 32 bytes high, with each spot or pixel being 1 bit. Hence a 64 pixel by 256 pixel image. The ELF only had 256 bytes of memory. If you had more memory you could assign a specific memory space just for the video image and another for the code.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>elf.exe -r pixie.rom -a -1861</b></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_GuIhWgb69C2Hs-HoM5nqEZMAkxMosURCYbK94dNR6bTfpHa4xBHayT4ns4YvYLLYaHm0_pywQFbvRTSMi2gSYhunMiD1S079IjU5erJ0jWV9U6R5ivuBzU7k-U_yHcobWHDVoMIVO5Y/s1600/elf_pixie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_GuIhWgb69C2Hs-HoM5nqEZMAkxMosURCYbK94dNR6bTfpHa4xBHayT4ns4YvYLLYaHm0_pywQFbvRTSMi2gSYhunMiD1S079IjU5erJ0jWV9U6R5ivuBzU7k-U_yHcobWHDVoMIVO5Y/s1600/elf_pixie.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
I remember keying that code into the ELF II above via the hex keypad and being totally amazed when I saw it on my TV I had connected. I then later devised my only images to be displayed.WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-43243501288350136662016-11-15T17:13:00.000-08:002016-11-15T17:13:18.832-08:00Camper Build VIIThe latest work on the camper have been on the windows. I am going with a sliding widow design. The basic window is made using the "like wood" plastic trim material from Home Depot. You can see the size of the 1 foot square window relative to our cat below. I am using a plastic slider guide I found <a href="http://www.rockler.com/4-foot-plastic-sliding-door-track">HERE</a> . I will document it in greater detail when I get the tinted acrylic panels working in the slides.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4m26eOlzcxJtkLYosIqQaMCLpdkuXZXY8TZS5sTDHA6gZGrFCVWGq-L3tU4HO_DlbJZLtXRnWfuNEShPKV6Cb2ZTMZPI9nx402ajD-kpSe3-h5juqi8ltJrFeoKz9UL45UlSMuyQDnUE/s1600/IMG_2521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4m26eOlzcxJtkLYosIqQaMCLpdkuXZXY8TZS5sTDHA6gZGrFCVWGq-L3tU4HO_DlbJZLtXRnWfuNEShPKV6Cb2ZTMZPI9nx402ajD-kpSe3-h5juqi8ltJrFeoKz9UL45UlSMuyQDnUE/s320/IMG_2521.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The door is progressing as well. I am using a standard screen door handle for the latch. I had to make a longer pin for the outside handle to inside lever assembly and longer bolts but otherwise unchanged. I will be insulating the door and installing a optical peep on it too. Below is a current walk around.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3M_LaRGsVN75sQOeuNkQv9xulV0Cn-yT6mE9HhvhL7Unwr_Dpe3dVSp3RQHLFuOhmlkKt-jI9UUDaazNV9z4RHuRtyeF26-8fY4FtA8tzQRuqzCQipM-fSrNe9jvi7Fp26CbU8oaL56E/s1600/IMG_2530.GIF" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3M_LaRGsVN75sQOeuNkQv9xulV0Cn-yT6mE9HhvhL7Unwr_Dpe3dVSp3RQHLFuOhmlkKt-jI9UUDaazNV9z4RHuRtyeF26-8fY4FtA8tzQRuqzCQipM-fSrNe9jvi7Fp26CbU8oaL56E/s320/IMG_2530.GIF" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I will begin the surface preparation soon for paint, but there are many small details I need to work on, but it is getting close.WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-64392148897772980142016-10-04T19:31:00.003-07:002016-10-04T19:31:35.003-07:00Camper Build VII have been continuing on the camper and have finished the left and right side frames.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPaDEMfxFiaw2dB2fL1krX_aCAClbs2iUaHNHHdb-SY8LKdit1wdFmLb5dVEUYY8iFuFGyYcp7dleI8GAV-ETH8MIA-CLTFq7_5oPG8rhyphenhyphengeP6eKL_zbC-5cv-5-4nZ7g9bsWGV5cZkC8/s1600/IMG_2465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPaDEMfxFiaw2dB2fL1krX_aCAClbs2iUaHNHHdb-SY8LKdit1wdFmLb5dVEUYY8iFuFGyYcp7dleI8GAV-ETH8MIA-CLTFq7_5oPG8rhyphenhyphengeP6eKL_zbC-5cv-5-4nZ7g9bsWGV5cZkC8/s320/IMG_2465.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I decided to go with a one foot square window based on the available space in the panel. Here the camper is folded out with both sides now.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQtGXiyoXnEyF8xAvmkWYRMQN29hRMh70T-MEkFRTtFXC8whtKvthomYWrVWzXaH9M5jqGifKKjwT6DqyO5OJegtZ0Xni-qcBewT3uH8odEIO0I_KmtaiXGkkSw0342csmSpm6Z3g0ZM/s1600/IMG_2467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQtGXiyoXnEyF8xAvmkWYRMQN29hRMh70T-MEkFRTtFXC8whtKvthomYWrVWzXaH9M5jqGifKKjwT6DqyO5OJegtZ0Xni-qcBewT3uH8odEIO0I_KmtaiXGkkSw0342csmSpm6Z3g0ZM/s320/IMG_2467.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The small lawn mower wheels I was using have now been replaced with larger 10" Harbor Freight <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-worry-free-tire-96691.html">Worry Free Tires</a>. They feel like pneumatic tires but use foam that makes them perform similar to a pneumatic wheels. The larger size helps since the folded camper is getting close to 200 pounds (estimate -I will weight it at some point).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTCaBocPHrNPDiqUI2962bRq5ZcMJ13wPSRc50TUvIxuf65Mw0ec3JQM2ty7qWeR5URbCPH3LLjTN4C_m9GpeCCNeDRs-cjIxtyWoIHc3ffbCtg2J3je8fusBYM3d9rtZGjYMAc_YVddQ/s1600/IMG_2468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTCaBocPHrNPDiqUI2962bRq5ZcMJ13wPSRc50TUvIxuf65Mw0ec3JQM2ty7qWeR5URbCPH3LLjTN4C_m9GpeCCNeDRs-cjIxtyWoIHc3ffbCtg2J3je8fusBYM3d9rtZGjYMAc_YVddQ/s320/IMG_2468.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Next will be building the doors, window and skylight.WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-69414129267787589432016-09-20T22:51:00.001-07:002016-09-20T22:51:12.624-07:00Folding Camper Build VI have continued to work each weekend on the camper build. Here is the progress now in a animated GIF:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwnjf4TTsD0aRrmtu62BpYfvbVERgIA-ST6tSQ3NTAfDhL9mCdN_p7T1XEbYCvmr-9tFiEIuKR9zLiJGUbkGWEFJPej9IGo2gJQBxAM3nPmT1K_rXUkcLn5AR4Ig94VX_PkqD0SzrhUDM/s1600/IMG_2460.GIF" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwnjf4TTsD0aRrmtu62BpYfvbVERgIA-ST6tSQ3NTAfDhL9mCdN_p7T1XEbYCvmr-9tFiEIuKR9zLiJGUbkGWEFJPej9IGo2gJQBxAM3nPmT1K_rXUkcLn5AR4Ig94VX_PkqD0SzrhUDM/s320/IMG_2460.GIF" width="320" /></a></div>
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The insulated bottom section is now attached to the hinged top and front. The door in the front has been framed out as well as the skylight on the top. Next are the sides.WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3931612181849543867.post-83849173274727685332016-08-23T18:30:00.002-07:002016-08-23T18:30:32.030-07:00Folding Camper Build IVLast weekend I finishes the insulation and support structure.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWUKW0CsYpEpVYpj8DbanjOjHrolAFFGYdDlTyounfbiZ0qNP9OzIOb8smHtBbRzzp_af6M8oF0OiIfHr9oL8GXMp__dKptS2xd53VSsa3-px3VKdzNHkucGcPhyphenhyphens6xbqSNxKWOTCYkkg/s1600/IMG_2421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWUKW0CsYpEpVYpj8DbanjOjHrolAFFGYdDlTyounfbiZ0qNP9OzIOb8smHtBbRzzp_af6M8oF0OiIfHr9oL8GXMp__dKptS2xd53VSsa3-px3VKdzNHkucGcPhyphenhyphens6xbqSNxKWOTCYkkg/s320/IMG_2421.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
This weekend I finished the decking. It feels stiffer now and heaver too. The floor is now approximately 1 inch thick. Notice I support it now on the frame in three places. I may experiment with going back to two bars.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjil51Ht7PfNQdEQT7Gi8DehvJFwOYUhx8-kUixz2x8nx_X0vtF0OUVHuZ81MtB9YGw7kulQAWzn9Uw5_AZiNeIH2rGX7t57cGo3SWRpF5V81GR5YH8T2xoAonnEnjLQsV61j4OJ9Xyxq0/s1600/IMG_2433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjil51Ht7PfNQdEQT7Gi8DehvJFwOYUhx8-kUixz2x8nx_X0vtF0OUVHuZ81MtB9YGw7kulQAWzn9Uw5_AZiNeIH2rGX7t57cGo3SWRpF5V81GR5YH8T2xoAonnEnjLQsV61j4OJ9Xyxq0/s320/IMG_2433.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Hopefully the rest of the build goes faster. The walls don't need to support any significant weight so the framing will be lighter and should got fast. I intend to build the front wall with the door next then the top and sides.WA6PZB Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09134718214210961934noreply@blogger.com0